Epicurean Traveler

Chardonnay Wine Tasting Notes


2007 Scott Family Estate, Dijon Clone,
Arroyo Seco, Chardonnay: $25
Score: 91.0
I prefer a more subtle style of Chardonnay. That said, this is a very good example of a more powerful style. It exudes vanilla, caramel and toast, and underlying layers of apricot, oranges and white peaches (it's almost Viognier-like in its fruit cocktail character), with a hint of green olives. Intense, rich, and reasonably balanced, it's an outstanding wine for the style.
2007 Kenwood Vineyards,
Russian River Valley, Chardonnay Reserve $25
Score: 90.0
It's interesting reading other writers' impressions of this wine, as tasting is such a subjective affair. I don't agree with some of the descriptions, but I do agree that this is an excellent Chardonnay. It starts with an earthy nose, not so unlike Pinot Noir, then launches into apricot and lime flavors on the mid palate, and finishes with all of the above: fruit, earth, minerality. It's complex and balanced, and the finish lingers on and on.
2007 Sebeka,
Western Cape, South Africa, Chardonnay: $10
Score: 86.0
You won't find great depth or complexity here, but Sebeka's Chardonnay does offer solid varietal character, pear flavors with vanilla accents, a lovely smooth texture and good balance -- and all for a price that won't break the bank. Fine aperitif, and perfect with grilled chicken or sautéed fish.
2006 Joseph Carr,
Carneros, Chardonnay $20.00
Score: 88.0
From the packaging to the wine this is a classy, restrained presentation. Silky smooth texture with tangerine, white peach and mineral notes, and persistent intensity. It's subtle and not terribly complex, but it's just the kind of wine that goes so well with food.
2007 Rutherford Ranch,
Napa Valley Chardonnay $15
Score: 87.0
In our blind tasting of Chardonnay, some were heavy and unbalanced, some were over-oaked, some had obvious alcohol. So I was immediately impressed by the balance of this offering, which has decent acid, ripe pear-like fruit with a bit of butterscotch, and a crisp finish. It's not the most complex Chardonnay, but it does show excellent varietal definition with its fruit profile, and the fruit and oak are in balance. Best served chilled. Very good value.
2007 Valley of the Moon
Sonoma Coast Chardonnay $16.00
Score: 92.0
This is inspired winemaking. You'll rarely encounter a Chardonnay with such bright varietal character and elegance. It's silky, with a soft core and tart edges, and offers lemon zest, pippin apple, subtle oak spices and vibrant acidity. You won't find a better value, unless it's Valley of the Moon's unoaked Russian River Chardonnay. You can't go wrong in either case.
2007 Round Hill
California, Chardonnay $8.00
Score: 84.0
This is a simple Chardonnay with good varietal definition in its lemon chiffon/under-ripe pear flavors. It's medium-full bodied and could use a bit more acid, so it shows best when chilled. At $8 it's a rare bargain.
2006 Sebastiani,
Carneros Chardonnay $25
Score: 88.0
I find this wine puzzling. According to the technical sheet provided by the winery, this wine saw only 44% new oak ageing, but the oak dominates this wine -- heavy butterscotch and vanilla aromas and flavors. You will also find orange blossom and citrus notes, but they are overpowered by the oak. Nonetheless, the silky texture is appealing, and the finish lingers for minutes. The bottom line is that this is a wine that will appeal to many consumers looking for a ton of flavor and a little kick (it's 14.3% alcohol). It's best served chilled. My consumer tasting panel gave it a thumbs up.
2007 Kenwood Vineyards,
Sonoma County, Chardonnay $15
Score: 88.0
This is an interesting compromise of styles, having the fat buttery qualities of a barrel fermented Chardonnay, and some of the lighter fruit and acid structure of a stainless steel fermented Chardonnay. In our blind tasting we tasted it at cellar temperature, but I preferred it slightly chilled (so I bumped it up a point). It has a silky texture, with a core of nectarine and green apple fruit. It could work as an aperitif, but I'd rather have it with a roasted chicken or pasta prima vera. Widely available and a good value at $15.
2006 Dry Creek Vineyard,
Russian River Valley Chardonnay $20
Score: 85.0
I'm sorry to report the 2006 is heavy-handed in comparison with the 2005. It's undoubtedly complex, showing aromas of apricots and hazelnuts, and there is a pleasant lemon chiffon note on the palate, but the oak comes off as coarse and aggressive on the mid-palate and finish. Some will like it, but I'm disappointed.
2007 Lake Sonoma Winery,
Russian River Valley Chardonnay $17
Score: 89.0
Less textural and less elegant than Lake Sonoma's Pinot Gris, there is none-the-less an appealing rustic edge to the palate of this Chardonnay that follows the Bartlett pear and vanilla nose. On the palate it shows a crisp acidity and a touch of spice that lends some interest to the fruit core.
2006 Frei Brothers
Russian River Valley, Chardonnay Reserve $20
Score: 92.0
Inspired winemaking shows through in this Chardonnay, showing perfect balance of crisp, lively citrus flavors with just enough oak (subtle butterscotch & toast) and sur lie ageing to lend texture and nuance. I'd love to pit this against some super expensive Corton Charlemagnes (I think it would show very well). Widely available and a real bargain at $20.
2006 Frei Brothers
Russian River Valley, Chardonnay Reserve $20
Score: 92.0
Inspired winemaking shows through in this Chardonnay, that shows a perfect balance of crisp, lively citrus flavors with just enough oak (subtle butterscotch & toast) and sur lie ageing to lend texture and nuance. Widely available and a real bargain at $20.
2007 Valley of the Moon, Unoaked,
Russian River Valley, Chardonnay $16
Score: 93.0
For years California Chardonnays have been criticized for being over-oaked. Now, as consumers have embraced unoaked Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris/Grigio, a few California producers are presenting examples of Chardonnay without oak ageing. It's not really a new concept, but consumers seem ready to accept lighter, more elegant Chardonnays. Valley of the Moon's press release suggests the unoaked rendition "invites casual enjoyment," but I'd say it invites the opportunity to experience the unmasked fruit of Chardonnay grapes. This version presents a light and lively blend of flavors reminiscent of fine French Chablis -- tart apple and citrus flavors, substantial minerality and crisp acidity that carry the finish for minutes. It's a superb palate cleanser, perfect with shellfish and poultry (especially duck).
2006 Redwood Creek
California Chardonnay $8
Score: 90.0
Don't let the price fool you; Redwood Creek's 2006 Chardonnay is worth twice the price. At this price point you can't expect much varietal character or complexity, yet this is a superbly made wine that reminds me in some ways of a Spanish Albariño with more body. It's a blend of Chardonnay (87%) with lesser amounts of Chenin Blanc, Viognier and various other white varieties, but the Chardonnay shows through with a hint of lemon-chiffon wrapped around a citrus peel core and fine minerality through the finish. There's no oak here, so the fruit stands on its own. It's a beautiful food wine, particularly with spicy Asian or cajun fare, and it's a bargain to boot.

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